Montrealers conduct much of their business and their social lives in the city's eating places, and Montreal food is as varied as its population, ranging from the rich meat dishes of typical Quebecois cuisine to bagels bursting with cream cheese.

There are lots of restaurants. It may be unwise to select just a few favorites since you can generally find quite good food in lots of places. Here are some places that you might wish to try. The dollar sign is a rough guide to price, but if your budget is limited, you better check to make sure or look at the menu that almost always is displayed outside the door. Alcohol is extra. Tips and taxes are rarely included in the base price and usually add 30% to the food cost. Reservations may be needed at busy times.

Markets

Fresh produce is never far off. Four markets in Montreal give farmers a chance to sell their stock-home-grown fruit and vegetables as well as local cheese, meat, fish-you name it. The big two are Marché Atwater (138 Atwater; metro Lionel-Groulx) and Marché Jean-Talon (7075 Casgrain; metro Jean-Talon). Other markets are Marché Maisonneuve (4445 Ontario E.; metro Pie-IX) and Marché Saint-Jacques (1125 Ontario E.; metro Berri-UQÀM). Official hours are Mon–Wed 8am–6pm, Thu–Fri 8am–9pm, weekends 8am–5pm, although some farm-stalls may open earlier. The markets are open year round.

Montreal Meals (under $10)

Another Montreal blessing is that it’s not hard to get fed for less than a tenner. This, plus the great selection of ethnic restaurants, means even those on a modest budget can afford a good sit-down meal now and again.

For those budgeteers who can’t be bothered to cook at all, we suggest Simon Dardick and Nancy Marrelli’s book Cheap Thrills, published by Véhicule Press (©1998 edition). Inside, you’ll find nearly 100 listings of Montreal restos where you can eat for under $10.

The following list of restaurants is by no means inclusive, and gives preference to those in or near student neighborhoods.

• Amazona Family-style Greek place with great prices and better food. Among the best tzatziki in town. Not to be confused with other Amazonas. 5525 Côte-St-Luc, 484-2612
• Amelio’s An institution in the McGill Ghetto for several decades. Their specialties are pizza and pastas served in generous portions and at student-friendly prices. 201 Milton, 845-8396
• Basha A Montreal centre for shawarma, falafel and shish taouk. The best is their flagship location across from the Paramount Cinema, 930 Ste-Catherine W., 866-4272
• Binerie Mont-Royal 1940s-style diner where you can eat like a lumberjack. Very small place with cheap, homey, meat-oriented food. 367 Mont-Royal E., 285-9078
• Boustan Notable falafel two steps from Concordia. 2020A Crescent, 843-3576
• Café Electra Cozy Italian panini place where delicious sandwiches are prepared with fresh ingredients and great care. 24 des Pins E., 288-0853
• Café Presto Offers home-style Italian cooking in the heart of downtown, which is a rarity. Great prices. 1244 Stanley, 879-5877
• Chez Gatsé A Tibetan restaurant offering exotic food from the “Roof of the World,” at low-altitude prices. 317 Ontario E., 985-2494
• Cosmos Snack Bar A noisy, friendly greasy spoon specializing in crude but effective mega-calorie breakfasts. 5843 Sherbrooke W., 486-3814
• Cristal de Saigon This Vietnamese diner is often packed with an assortment of local Chinatown residents and visitors. Disarmingly inexpensive, the meal-sized Tonkinoise soups contain all the necessary life-sustaining ingredients. 1068 St-Laurent, 875-4275
• Le Faubourg Technically speaking it’s a mall, but their international 3rd floor food-court has a few gems, including Bangkok, a Thai delight and Maison du Bédouin, which offers North African food. (see Ethnic Foods)
• Just Noodles Watch your food being prepared at these noodle emporiums. The price is right and the food’s always fresh. 2061 Ste-Catherine W., 989-5826; 3711 St-Laurent, 288-9593; and there’s a similar Mr. Noodles at 355 Bernard W., 274-7452
• Kilo Resto A nice place to meet and eat, especially if you like coffee and decadent desserts. 5206 St-Laurent, 277-5039; 1495 Ste-Catherine E., 596-3933
• Luck Hop Foo 5214 St-Laurent, 948-5503
• Maison de Cari Golden This Indian restaurant offers a tasty selection of tandoori and curries. Some vegetarian options and superb Nan bread. Their Dinner for Two easily feeds three or four. Take-out available. 5210 St-Laurent, 270-2561
• Mazurka Like having a home-cooked meal prepared by Polish relatives. This family-run restaurant has been around since the ‘60s. Some vegetarian dishes have been added to the menu. The $5.95 special ($6.75 on weekends) is a real bargain. 64 Prince-Arthur E., 844-3539
• La Paryse Enjoy one of the best burgers in town, in comfortable neo-retro surroundings. 302 Ontario E., 842-2040
• Sara Well-placed falafel spot, après club or on the run. 4495 St-Laurent, 843-9014
• Schwartz’s Hebrew Delicatessen The Mirror readers’ 2002 Best of Montreal pick for best smoked meat. The tables are crammed together, the waiters are often surly and line-ups aren’t uncommon, but regulars will swear it’s all worth it. 3895 St-Laurent, 842-4813
• Soups & Noodles Would civilization be what it is without Asian-style noodle shops? Good, cheap eats in a hurry. Take-out too.1871 Ste-Catherine W., 933-0531
• Titanic If you’re in Vieux Montréal, try this lunchroom sandwicherie for tasty concoctions. 445 St-Pierre, 849-0894
• Wilensky’s Light Lunch Where Mordecai Richler hung out as a kid. This 60-year-old institution is famous for its hand-pumped sodas, rickety wooden stools, and “The Special,” basically salami on a bun. Closes early and is never open on the weekend. 34 Fairmount W., 271-0247

Montreal Meals (under $20)

• Santropol (3990 St. Urbain; tel.: 284-9335) Great vegetarian food. Huge sandwiches with fruits and weird mixes.
• Schwartz (3895 Blvd. St. Laurent; tel.: 842-4813) Smoked meat.
• Arahova (256 St. Viateur W.; tel.: 695-1110) Excellent souvlaki in informal atmosphere.
• Kam Fung (1111 St. Urbain, in Chinatown; tel.: 878-2888) The place to go for Dim Sum on Sunday morning or at lunch during the week.
• Le Commensale (204 McGill College; tel.: 871-1480) Good vegetarian food by the gram. Many different ways to cook setan. Great desserts. Just a few steps from the main campus. Also located at 3715 Queen Mary Road; tel.: 733-9755.
• Buffet Maharaja (1481 Rene Levesque Blvd.; tel.: 934-0655) All you can eat buffet. Pay $11.95 plus taxes and stoke up for several days. Good selection of vegetarian and meat dishes, but be sure to grill the chicken and shrimp on skewers.
• Pushap Sweets (5195 Pare; tel.: 737-4527) Vegetarian Indian home cooked food and sweets in tiny nondescript neighborhood restaurant. Very cheap and worth searching for. A short metro ride away from Université de Montreal.

Montreal Meals ($20-$50)

• Fonduementale (4325 St. Denis, near Rachel; tel.: 499-1446) Great fondues. Reservations needed.
• L'Express (3927 St. Denis; tel.: 845-5337) French bistro atmosphere. Many of the Quebec broadcasters are here. Real busy place. Reservations are essential at normal dining hours. Interesting well prepared meals. As close as you come to Paris in Montreal.
• Le Petit Extra (1690 Ontario Est; tel.: 527-5552) French bistro atmosphere. Lively, noisy scene and good cooking. Out of the Montreal downtown area. Reservations recommended.
• Thai Grill (5101 St. Laurent; tel.: 270-5566) Look your fish and shrimp in the face before they are grilled in unique Thai style.
• Le Pegase (1831 Gilford; tel.: 522-0487) This is a neighborhood restaurant outside the downtown core with excellent French cuisine. It is also a 'bring your own wine' place with great value.

Montreal Meals ($50 and up)

• Les Halles (1450 Crescent; tel.: 844-2328) This has the reputation of the best French restaurant in Montreal. Very expensive.
• Passe Partout (3857 Blvd. Decarie, Decarie 1 block south of the Villa Maria metro; tel.: 487-7750) Out of the downtown area. This place has about the best bread in Montreal. It was written up in the New York Times a few years back. Very expensive.
• Chez la Mère Michel (1209 Guy; tel.: 934-0473) Quiet and elegant. Rated better than Les Halles by local food critics. Very expensive.
• Toque! (99 Place Jean Riopelle, between Viger and St. Antoine; tel.: 499-2084) Perhaps the essential Montreal restaurant for visiting gourmets with lots of money who want to see Quebec cooking with absolute flair. Reservations usually must be made days in advance, especially for weekends and at the main eating times.

Vegetarian Restos

Good listings of Montreal restos and other vege-head resources are available online at various locations. Try following the geographical link at www.happycow.net.

• Bio Optimum Totally organic. 2090 Union, 843-8940
• Café les Entretiens A small café that has a large menu with a variety of salads and a table d’hôte every day. 1577 Laurier E. (near Papineau), 521-2934
• ChuChai An all-vegetarian Thai restaurant, specializes in fake vege-meats. 4088 St-Denis, 843-4194
• Le Commensal A tasty variety of foods, but be aware that you will pay for this vegetarian buffet by the gram. 1720 St-Denis, 845-2627; 1204 McGill-College, 871-1480; 3715 Queen Mary, 733-9755; and a few other locations.
• Aux Vivres Leisurely organic vegan restaurant with specialties like mock bacon, mock lox and home-made chapatis. 4434 St-Dominique, 842-3479
• Pushap Exotic Indian fare including lotus root and great Indian desserts made on-site. 5195 Paré (Namur metro), 737-4527. Also at 11991 Gouin W., 683-0556
• Spirite Restaurant and Lounge Only one meal on the menu each night and a $2 penalty for not eating everything on your plate (donated to charity). Most ingredients are organic; vegans and those with allergies are happily accommodated. An eating registry keeps track of when you came and what you ate so you don’t get served the same meal twice. 1201 Ontario E., 524-5264
• Végé-Deli Sandwiches, salads. 845 Ste-Catherine E., 287-3564

Study-friendly cafés

• Café Vienne (Guy & de Maisonneuve) Café Vienne has about 14 other outlets on the island, many within other student areas. This one near Concordia has student specials and a sunny terrasse when the weather permits. Smoking. 7am–8pm, 6pm on weekends. 2153 Guy, 932-4832
• Café Santropol Unique setting, ideal for reading, writing term papers or just procrastinating. Filling sandwiches with exotic ingredients, hearty soups and famed selection of house-blended herb teas. Beautiful garden in back when the weather’s nice. Fifteen per cent of all profits goes to charity. Open 11:30am–midnight, 3990 St-Urbain, 842-3110
• Ciné Express (Ste-Catherine & St-Marc) Open 24 hours. Whether you need coffee around the clock, a place to screen the film you made in school or just somewhere to watch The Simpsons between classes, Ciné Express is the place. Frequently hosts art exhibitions and stand-up comedy, and they show a movie every night. They have chess and backgammon boards. Licensed, with student specials. Smoking. 1926 Ste-Catherine W., 939-CINE
• Coins des Artistes (St-Laurent & Guilbault) A good place to watch the teeming masses of the Main go by. Grab a snack at the food counter, which supplies more than your average café fare. 3685 St-Laurent, 288-9515
• Open Da Night This laid-back neighborhood hangout, now something of a Mile-End institution, opens early and closes when the last person leaves. Don’t be confused by last year’s addition of “Café Olimpico” awnings. 124 St-Viateur W., 495-0746
• Second Cup (du Parc & Milton) Unlike the above, Second Cup enforces a strict no-smoking policy, with a few exceptions made for Montreal’s sizable smoking population; namely the 24-hour café in the McGill Ghetto, which has a lot of terrasse space that transforms itself into a heated smoking section in the winter months. 3498 du Parc, 288-2903
• Tim Hortons Right next to Concordia, it’s a handy place to cram throughout the night, 24 hours. 2081 Guy, 935-1942
• Starbucks There are outlets of this corporate coffeehouse all over the island, some central locations are 1171 Ste-Catherine, 843-4418, 5526 Monkland, 904-2233, 5101 du Parc, 907-7827, 1709 St-Denis, 904-5288

Cybercafés

Unfortunately for the technologically deprived, the number of these places has dropped dramatically. With computer prices dropping, and the idea that everyone should have a home computer on the rise, only the strong cybercafés will survive.

• Cyberground Café Internet Featuring 17 PCs with ADSL Internet access, network multi-player games and time to rent on word-processors as well as Photoshop and CorelDraw. 21” and 17” screens. $3.50 for half an hour, 15¢ a minute after that, $7+tax/hour or $5.85+tax/hour for a four-hour block. 3672 St-Laurent, 842-1726
• M.C. Copy (see CV copy centres for address) 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, 365 days a year. Internet access, calculated in 10-minute chunks. Reasonable rates.
• Presse Café Computers with Internet access for $5/hour or $3.50 for a half an hour. Open 24 hours. 1263 Ste-Catherine E. (Gay Village), 528-9530

All-night & late-night eats

• Arahova Souvlaki A plethora of tasty Greek delights in simple surroundings. These two locations have different owners. Open until 2am Sun–Thu, until 5am Fri–Sat. 256 St-Viateur W., 274-7828; 1425 Crescent, 499-0262
• Ben’s A mainstay of late-night eateries, where the all-night crowd used to wait for the morning papers to read the racing results. Smoked meat, photos of stars who visited and even poetry on occasions. Open Sun–Wed 7:30–2am, Thu 7:30–3am, Fri–Sat 7:30–4am. 990 de Maisonneuve W., 844-1000
• Chez Claudette Diner food with vegetarian touches. Open 24/7. They serve breakfast all day and have a selection of freshly squeezed juice drinks. 351 Laurier E., 279-5173
• La Banquise Poutine heaven, open 24/7. 994 Rachel E., 525-2415
• Euro Deli offers good, cheap, Italian-style eats for the hipster crowd. Open Mon–Wed 8:30–2:00am, Thu–Fri from 8:30am–4am, Sat 9–4am, Sun 10–4am. 3619 St-Laurent, 843-7853
• Green Spot Classic casse-croute fare in the liveliest part of St-Henri. Open 5am–midnight Mon–Thu, 24 hours on weekends. 3041 Notre-Dame W., 931-6473
• The Main Good smoked meat, blintzes and latkes, or breakfast depending on your mood. Open Sun–Thu10–5am, Fri–Sat 10–5:30am. 3864 St-Laurent, 843-8126
• Picasso Open 24/7. 6810 St-Jacques, 484-2832
• Presse Café (see Internet Cafés)
• Salonica An all-night casse-croute with a variety of poutines and other decent, debauched fare-their “Small” poutine feeds at least two. Delivery until 6am. 5261 St-Denis (one block north of Laurier), 274-9319/274-9310

Health food stores

• À votre santé As well-stocked as any good grocery, except everything’s organic. 5126 Sherbrooke W., 482-8233
• Club Organic Specializes in organically raised vegetables, some meats, and sells bulk foods. 4341 Frontenac, 523-0223
• Fleur Sauvage Also has cosmetics, supplements, herbs. 5561 Monkland, 482-5193
• Frenco Bulk food with vitamins, herbs and spices and some organic foods. 3985 St-Laurent, 285-1319
• Health Tree 7133 Côte-St-Luc, 484-5031
• Kilo-Naturel 201 St-Viateur W., 278-3377
• Le Frigo Vert A non-profit health-food store operated by Concordia University’s student associations boasts the lowest prices on health foods and organic produce in town. 2130 Mackay, 848-7586
• Optimum Also runs an organic restaurant around the corner at 2090 Union. 630 Sherbrooke W., 845-1015
• Rachelle-Béry Organic foods, cosmetics and vitamins. 505 Rachel E., 524-0725; 2510 Beaubien E., 727-2327; 1366 Ontario E., 525-2215; 4660 St-Laurent, 849-4118; 1332 Fleury E., 388-5793
• Tau 4238 St-Denis, 843-4420
• Teva 5143 Décarie, 486-5542

Ethnic foods

There’s no sense in alternating between Kraft Dinner and burgers all year in a city so abundantly stocked in the foods of the world. And though it would be nice, you can’t possibly eat out every day. Success lies in finding the right ingredients which, in Montreal, simply means knowing which area to shop in.

Chinatown is an obvious place to start when looking for Asian-cuisine ingredients; there are countless groceries and specialty shops between Viger, St-Denis, René-Lévesque and St-Urbain. Authentic Japanese products can also be found at Miyamoto (382 Victoria, 481-1952).

If you’re looking for the real Italian thing, then take a trip to Little Italy (St-Laurent just south of Jean-Talon) and the nearby Jean-Talon market. Many groceries, butchers and cheese shops can be found in the area, with plenty of places to stop for an espresso along the way. Italian grocery Latina in Mile-End (185 St-Viateur W., 273-6561) is a lovely, if high-end, place to shop.

From about Fairmount toward the north, the Mile-End district is packed with great restos, cafés, groceries and several infamous bagel shops including Fairmount Bagel (74 Fairmount W., 272-0667) and St-Viateur Bagels (263 St-Viateur W., 276-8044), both open 24 hours. St-Viateur has restaurants plus several groceries-including Latina (see above), a great little Polish deli call Euro-Deli Batory (115 St-Viateur W., 948-2161) and Kilo-Naturel (see Health Food)-as well as numerous cafés in the five-block stretch between the Main and du Parc. Get your fresh tortillas, nachos and chipotles at Tortilleria Maya (5274 St-Laurent, 495-0606). It all makes the neighborhood a relaxing alternative to the well-stocked but crowded strip of St-Laurent between des Pins and Mont-Royal. But in that strip, two places of note are Boulangerie St-Laurent (3830 St-Laurent, 845-4536), an old-style East European bakery with amazing fresh bread and La Vieille Europe (3855 St-Laurent, 842-5773), a lively and affordable delicatessen, cheese shop and specialty store.

One of Mile-End’s favourite café/deli/bakeries is Navarino, at 5563 du Parc, 279-7725. They sell great baklava as well as croissants, sandwiches and filling, nutritious salads.

Other specialty food stores include Les Aliments Exotiques (733-7577, 6695 Victoria) for West Indian products, Marché Adonis (2001 Sauve W., 382-8606) is a good bet for Middle Eastern fare, and don’t try going to either Kosher City (4765 Van Horne, 733-2838) or the Kosher Quality Bakery (5855 Victoria, 731-7883) after sundown on Friday. You can find the world pour emporter at Le Faubourg Ste-Catherine (1616 Ste-Catherine W., 939-3663). Across the street is Almanar (1631 Ste-Catherine W., 938-8533) specializing in East Indian foodstuffs. P.A. Super Marché (5029 du Parc, 273-8782), sells some organic meat and produce, stays open to 11pm nightly and offers free delivery within the neighborhood if your grocery load is too heavy to carry.

Late-night groceries

• 4 Frères Late-night hunger has met its match-leave the club and head straight there. Open 24 hours at 3701 St-Laurent, 844-1474. Up in Mile-End, the other 4 Frères at 5600 du Parc, 272-5258 is open 8am–11pm every day, though the quality and selection are more limited.
• Provigo A late-night grocery to satisfy the most monstrous munchie sufferers. Open 8am–2am daily. 1953 Ste-Catherine W., 932-3756; or until midnight at 3421 du Parc, 281-0488